Forum Replies Created
- MRKaneParticipant03/22/2016 at 02:21Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant03/07/2016 at 01:47Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant03/03/2016 at 23:01Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant03/02/2016 at 23:39Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant02/29/2016 at 22:18Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant02/25/2016 at 22:53Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant02/12/2016 at 01:44Post count: 58
That’s a seriously impressive build! Are you using the switch as on/off for power or is it wired directly?
Some case mounts are just things stuffed in a box with a bit of paint. But this, this is art!MRKaneParticipant12/14/2015 at 03:45Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant12/09/2015 at 02:39Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant12/09/2015 at 02:23Post count: 58
Don’t have anything to add, but just want to say that I love the article and “tinkering” as getting every stitch of performance out of a system really makes the difference!
I forgot that I do have something to add. When I was tinkering with this on my setup I found that having a larger than standard power supply (I’m now running a 3A one) appeared to improve stability while running overclocked with a full set of peripherals. It could have also been that my 2A supply wasn’t up to spec.MRKaneParticipant11/18/2015 at 00:39Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant11/10/2015 at 02:08Post count: 58
There were a couple of half-baked mods in Quake and the original Half-Life (for the Dreamcast of all things) and while the guys over at ShootersForever have come a long way understanding what’s going on with the game I really doubt there’ll ever be a port as such. Given the nature of N64 hardware emulation for it is likely to say in the “just good enough” bracket also – but goldeneye does run on the Pi 2 and a custom control scheme makes it very playable!MRKaneParticipant11/08/2015 at 23:57Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant11/08/2015 at 22:40Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant11/05/2015 at 23:41Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant11/03/2015 at 23:13Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant10/27/2015 at 23:30Post count: 58
Very nice work! As a quick question: Speaking of kids: I’ve always found that directed design (such as “get this raspberry pi into this case and working”, or “we’ve three toy wheels, some wood, and this motor…how to make a bike”) is substantially more educational than one of the kitset projects from the hobby store. Nice one!MRKaneParticipant10/21/2015 at 01:02Post count: 58
I’ll start off by saying that I’m only just getting around to this and have to do it via command line as just don’t have access to anything more than that.
That aside it’d almost be handy to have the ability to select the overlay within the emulator settings on RetroPie itself. Just throwing that out there ;)MRKaneParticipant10/14/2015 at 11:58Post count: 58
Right, finally had the time to sit down and try this and just want to say thanks so much for writing this guide! I’m still having a little trouble getting the buttons sorted out, and don’t seem to have any success myself with the axis stuff either.
But again: THANK YOU!! I’m a total noob and well on the way!MRKaneParticipant10/12/2015 at 01:06Post count: 58
After years of being a competitive player: Whichever is fastest and clearest ;) Seriously though this is a real can of worms topic.
When it comes to emulation I actually find that some games tend to benefit from smoothing more than others depending on how the art is changed in its look and feel. Monkey Island is a perfect example of “a bit of smoothing really goes a long way” in my opinion as the art is very vibrant and has a high level of contrast meaning it scales up with smoothing nicely. Others (think: Micro Machines or TMNT: Turtles in Time, or anything that really worked with the pixel art feel such as Comix on the SNES) suit no smoothing.MRKaneParticipant10/12/2015 at 00:49Post count: 58
I actually found that I was getting low power warnings from my Pi with the standard 2A supply and four USB controllers connected and ended up sourcing a 3.5A supply which really helped things out and seemed to supply enough power for the unit. In saying that I’m also relaying the connection through a few wires and a switch so it might not be all that’s going on here ;)MRKaneParticipant10/08/2015 at 23:57Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant10/08/2015 at 23:25Post count: 58
Actually I updated to RetroPie 3.1 last night and the emulation issues I was getting on the SNES seem to have been resolved, but thank you for helping out!!!MRKaneParticipant10/08/2015 at 02:49Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant10/08/2015 at 00:44Post count: 58
I’ve been trying to get Micro Machines 2 going. It won’t emulate on Snes9x so I can’t play 4 player there, and all other emulators for the platforms it’s on won’t handle multitaps etc. the DOS version has the option of playing 4 people with two on keyboard, and while DosBox has a fantastic controller to keyboard mapping system the controller input that runs it just isn’t setup to receive input from more than two USB controllers.
It seems obvious enough to patch in the files but I just don’t have the raw skill/confidence to do it yet, and even if I did it’s a very rare case for extended functionality :)MRKaneParticipant10/08/2015 at 00:38Post count: 58
I’ll start off by saying that I’m a bare bones beginner so may be wasting your time here – but I do know a fair bit about the N64 ;)
That said I’d guess that it might have to do with the maximum values the controller is sending through for the stick movement. Typically I don’t have access to any documentation right now as am at work, but I think there’s a min and max range value set in the config files which is a half int (32762) and changing that range could be used to tweak the sensitivity issues.
The way to figure out if this IS the problem would be to run jstest and see what kinds of numbers you’re getting out of the controller. Given the bad experiences I’ve had trying to get modern pot sticks to work in the N64 “light gate” system I’d guess the sensitivity would max out at about a third of the pot value, and it’ll also behave a little different too in terms of how quickly the numbers become large.
Hope that helps!MRKaneParticipant10/07/2015 at 03:25Post count: 58
Well, after a fair bit of searching I’ve found the mapping details on github that tend to suggest that only two virtual joysticks can be mapped using Dosbox. I guess that answers that – still I’ll try with the USB hub and hope I’m reading this wrong. Failing that: is there more than a couple four player games that would make me digging into this worthwhile?MRKaneParticipant10/01/2015 at 00:19Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant09/28/2015 at 00:19Post count: 58
It had been a project I’d wanted to do for a while, and it ended up taking forever to make by the time I’d gone through and fixed every little hitch I hit. As for selling it (there’s always one) I’d be unwilling to let it go for anything under a massive price due to the horrible development time and issues I had to overcome technically. Flicking through the build photos I’ve narrowed it down to two really good ones, and there’s a block of text to follow explaining everything least someone wishes to do the same, and yes, I very much feel there’s not nearly enough Tron in our lives! ;)
To start with I wanted it to be a N64 and had a broken one (so this isn’t a Ben Heckable mod because it was DOA, but you could swap the board out…), I also wanted to operate things using the original switch, which is a dual position four pole switch (very unusual) and use existing openings for ports etc. I cut the PCB and stripped it by desoldering all components, then decided on that gap there keeping the mounts for the front ports and the switch itself. The power input for the Pi is on the upper left through a modified USB 1 port (the power supply also had to be butchered to fit the new port, and I did this so that it would be impossible to put the light supply into the Pi supply), the one beside it powers the lighting so they don’t need to go all the time (12V 0.8A standard socket). I actually ended up removing the LED at the front because it used just enough current to drop the supply to the Pi below 5.28V which I wasn’t happy with. I did also go through and replace the wires with some higher voltage high copper ones just to ensure the unit always got a good supply. On the upper right you can see a simple HD corner connector which acts as video out and the four pole 3.5mm extension for audio/RCA. Cigarette lighter for scale, and up beside that is the scavenged computer plug for connecting the lighting which was done using a LED strip that was threaded throughout the shell. I wanted the Pi to be removable so glued some velcro to the case and the shell to shoulder it from jolts. The USB and audio cables had to be shortened to get them to fit and they range from about 60mm through to 120mm. The front ports were drilled out and shaped with a rotary tool and the female end was whittled into shape to fit. The top cover was cut with the rotary, given a few layers of undercoat, and that fancy white translucent plastic is simply ice-cream container. Finally I spent weeks trying to get some sort of a cool design for the logo before finally giving up because all attempts looked “fuzzy” in comparison with the rest of the design. Total cost: about $140 with excessive shelf usage, total dev time: about three months.MRKaneParticipant09/27/2015 at 23:55Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant09/25/2015 at 02:34Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant09/24/2015 at 03:36Post count: 58
You’re right on the money there – I think it’s also joypad 0 that can do that too – still, it’s only little stuff in the larger scheme of things.
I’m only getting to grips with the project and frankly I’m afraid to mess with things as the last few times I’ve done it things have fallen over :(MRKaneParticipant09/23/2015 at 08:01Post count: 58MRKaneParticipant09/23/2015 at 07:33Post count: 58
There’s a joypad button for bringing up emulator launch options? I was thinking the other day that it’d be really awesome not to have to have a keyboard handy to always do this, and use the button “X” defined on setup on the controller instead :DMRKaneParticipant09/21/2015 at 05:53Post count: 58
I was sure I put a reply up but I did it on my iPad and it contained a link which might be why it doesn’t appear to have shown.
I stumbled across the development wiki for libretro-mupen64plus which stated that cheat codes were not supported. Simply put I may just have to wait until the devs do include gameshark in the build. There’s so much conflicting information out there and it makes it tough to filter through it all. Retroarch seems to support cheats but I’d be dead in the water getting that going also. Shall continue to try to find a way!