I’d like to add. Not sure if there is a connection. But some games where I can use my stick, it tends to move with little pauses. So if I push left and hold it there. The character moves, pauses, moves, pauses etc. The game itself is running smooth.

Using Hardware:
– RPi2b.
– http://www.ultracabs.co.uk/ekmps/shops/ultracabs/images/arcade-usb-interface-%5B2%5D-71-p.jpg

Tried Using Software:
– retropie-v2.6.0-rpi2
– retropie-v3.0beta2-rpi2

I’d add logs but I don’t yet know how to extract them from this architecture. New to this one.

I’d recommend going back to the clean image as you have edited the retroarch.cfg files quite a bit. You could put them back how they were but may well be easier starting again.

When you configure the retroarch joypad from the menu, it updates the controller file in this directory.

/opt/retropie/emulators/retroarch/configs

This is referred to in the main retroarch.cfg file
/opt/retropie/configs/all/retroarch.cfg in these line

input_autodetect_enable = true
joypad_autoconfig_dir = /opt/retropie/emulators/retroarch/configs/

If you start editing the retroarch.cfg its very easy to screw this up.

Rule of thumb is if you want auto detection etc.. keep the default truned on.
If you want to heavily customize the controller for each system, do it in the system config directories, I’d really try to leave retroarch.cfg alone.

I *think* your joypad is the USB_Gamepad_.cfg file

This video should help

You can double check your controller settings with jstest

I’m not sure how you wired it up – is the Arduino acting as USB HID device to the RPi?

I built a pinball controller using an Arduino Leonardo as USB HID “Gamepad”. That way I could use analog axis, tilt sensor, and of course some buttons. I use it for my pc pinball simulators and not configured for retropie, but I expect it not having the issues you describe, at least jstest looks all good.

If you want to turn a Leonardo (or Micro) into a custom USB HID, you have to change some C header files and create a suitable HID descriptor.
http://www.imaginaryindustries.com/blog/?p=80

try this way, it’s never failed me

https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=44177&hilit=move%252broot%252bfs%252busb%252btutorial&sid=2503f9ffe9afaa2edb49aef4537a862a

This just happened to me. I am running RP3.0 on a Pi 2 from USB. I was scraping metadata and did a reboot from within ES. When it rebooted it threw this message along with a few lines about a different rooms taking up extra or duplicate blocks.

I fixed it by running as root:

fsck /dev/sda2

While checking my drive, there were a few errors and I told it to fix them as they came up. After that a reboot occurred and it is good to go.

I would assume this would also work if running off SD by replacing sda2 with the address of the card? Barring the card being trashed, though.

I cannot really eval your components, since I do not own any of them – except the RPi2 of course, with heatsink. Another important componentent is the power supply, should at least provide 2A, I use the official one.

Regarding the USV + Fan Kit: I guess the heatsink applied on the broadcom should not be too high, because the fan is mounted below the Hat pcb. Personally I would watch the temperature of the overclocked RPi2 first, maybe you do not need a active cooling. Depends how high you want to clock, of course.

And the USV may be an idea, if your use-case is “plug out the cable to shut down”. Just as an alternative, the are also those Mausberry Circuits:
http://mausberry-circuits.myshopify.com/

I never had issues with sd card corruption (RPi2 + Samsung 32 evo card). What I do against sd corruption worst case proactively is:
– mount the boot partition read-only (remount rw for updates)
– use tempfs for /var/log (heavy write, I dont need them after power cycle)
– use “noatime” for all mounts (I dont care for access times)
– disabled swapping, unsure whether it was on anyway
– activated fs check every 3 boots for sd partition
– connected a button to GPIO that calls “poweroff” (like mausberry)
– maybe nobrainer: backup relevant files (manually, externally)

There are many howtos for that changes, unfortunately I cannot find the one I used to give credit. So here is another one:

Stopping SD Card Corruption on Raspberry Pi’s Raspbian

For GPIO button shutdown / exit emulators I started with Ronan’s nespi.py script:

Exit emulators via gpio signal?

[quote=94456]Got any screenshots on how the led strip is wired into a PSU? I guess I will have an extension lead in the back with the monitor and pi 2 attached.[/quote]

Here is my current setup, but this is changing to add in the main power switch and when I get my ATX PSU in-hand. I attached the amp to the same protoboard that is running the power rail for the LEDs (on the left of the board) so I could have them all powered by the same PSU. I will run the power lines from the amp to the same power rail and have that tapped into the ATX.

That power rail is 12v, so it is powering the LED strips and the triangle buttons on the front of the machine (they are 12v also.)

[quote=94456]Where does the joystick and illuminated buttons get their power from?[/quote]

On the ones I ordered from eBay, the LEDs in the buttons are 5v and pull power through the USB connection to the Pi.

[quote=94459]did the joysticks that Arcade USB kit have on ebay make any annoying “click” sounds when push arround[/quote]

No clicking on the LED buttons, but the 1 & 2 player and triangle buttons, as well as the joysticks all use the push button micro switches, so you get the “click.”

[quote=94456]So these uses one congtroller for both players?[/quote]

These have individual boards for each player with an independent USB cable for each.

[quote=94459]Why do some use the ipac2 and others the usb method?[/quote]

From what I understand, the ipac system emulates a keyboard (best suited for PC builds) for usage when you can only (or easily) assign button configurations to keyboard layouts instead of USB controllers. The Pi has no issue identifying most USB controllers – or at least with a little tweaking.

[quote=94459]What did you use to cover the monitor, plastic or glass?[/quote]

I used acrylic (plexiglass)

[quote=94459]How did you power the led strips and install a dimmer, very smart idea![/quote]

The power layout is above, and the dimmer will be a 10k potentiometer with a 1-450ohm resistor (haven’t tested yet) in line to keep the LEDs from blowing out.

[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/f715392ddab086ec458dd7b9103cce2a.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/692c868306dcdf1fe3fc9490c552ded4.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/f07fe11530543fa0cc57f2afe3f3bd50.jpg[/IMG]

I used usb for joystick .. See wiring…
19″ lcd
Speakers and amp with volume pot.
For power … Used a powerboard .. Then an ATX RASPI power supply wired up to a led button on the back.

Didn’t go with Graphics or T moulding because it sits in our dining room… My wife would not be happy with something that looked too loud…

Good luck

Dpicc….

[quote=94444]

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>khayman wrote:</div>
phrazelle and chillimonster, those are some awesome builds. Really great job.

Thanks.

[/quote]

Yes, thank you! This has been a fun project and I already want to make another one after all I learned throughout this build.

For reference, I got my controller kits off of eBay from China here. They work well, but we will see about longevity. The USB interface was recognized by my Pi 2 without issue; plug-and-play.

I also used LED strips for my marquee lighting. These were super cheap, as good of quality as at MicroCenter (they look like the same ones but in different packaging,) and fit the application perfectly. They are pretty bright though, and I am adding a dimmer in to adjust to a sweet spot. Maybe the aluminum tape I put in wasn’t totally necessary and could be causing the issue, but it definitely guarantees no spot-lighting from the strips.

I had my marquee graphic reverse-printed on the piece of acrylic I cut for it at my local print shop. *side note* I cut a piece of acrylic to sit on top of the vinyl control board graphic, but the pressure of the buttons screwed down made visible bubble-esque areas under the acrylic around the buttons and the LED illumination accentuated it to the point of it looking tacky. I ended up removing the acrylic altogether. I would have the graphic reverse printed on that acrylic piece if I were to do it again.

As for my display, I bought a 17″ Dell monitor off of eBay for $10 and ran an HDMI > DVI cable to it. I decased it like chilimonster did as well.

I used a set of 3.5″ Kicker car speakers and an amp from Adafruit for my audio. Had to disable audio dithering on the Pi to fix an audio glitch, but it sounds great.

Thanks.

The trick with the t-moulding is to make sure it’s warm. It’s like a coiled spring if cold.

When getting it around the corners I trim the barbs off for the inch or so where it goes around the corner. The slit is tight enough so it will not move. Tried all sorts of different ways and that is the best.

For lighting the marquee I use led strips (search eBay for 3528 led strip). It’s quite cheap and easily wired into a 12v psu.

Controller / encoder wise I use either the xin-mo or the zero delay encoders. If using the xin-mo I use two separate controllers , one for each player. Saves hassle in the retroarch emulators as the two player unit does not play nice with two player console games. Both work well with the pi2. The ZD are available from eBay at around £8 each from China including post and only take 4 days to arrive.

The beauty of those two is that they both perform pretty much the same and can share the same config files

I use any 19″ lcd. Decase it and rebate it into the monitor panel.

I’ve got hundreds of pictures documenting the build process so any questions fire away and I’ll do my best to help.

If you need details of the local company that does my printing let me know and I’ll put you in touch. He’s quick and the price is very reasonable. I pay £32 for two side arts and a marquee.

[quote=94440]That TRON one is amazing!!! illuminated buttons are a must.

Any tricks to get that chome T Moulding working roudn the curved areas, heard this is hard to do?

Do you use the ipac-2 or arcade usb controller for your buttons? I see you can buy various kits, not sure what woudl work with the pi 2.

I guess any old 19inch monitor should do the trick too?

I can’t find a marqueee light, but I can worry about this much later.

Very pro jobs, you she set up a shop. Seen many on ebay, some are very expensive.
[/quote]

I looked on here until I found this guy with same prob only thing is when I try to restart wlan0 I get this:

sudo ifup wlan0
Internet Systems Consortium DHCP Client 4.2.2
Copyright 2004-2011 Internet Systems Consortium.
All rights reserved.
For info, please visit https://www.isc.org/software/dhcp/

Listening on LPF/wlan0/00:0f:60:03:ff:5d
Sending on   LPF/wlan0/00:0f:60:03:ff:5d
Sending on   Socket/fallback
DHCPDISCOVER on wlan0 to 255.255.255.255 port 67 interval 3
DHCPDISCOVER on wlan0 to 255.255.255.255 port 67 interval 3
DHCPDISCOVER on wlan0 to 255.255.255.255 port 67 interval 4
DHCPDISCOVER on wlan0 to 255.255.255.255 port 67 interval 5
DHCPDISCOVER on wlan0 to 255.255.255.255 port 67 interval 8
DHCPDISCOVER on wlan0 to 255.255.255.255 port 67 interval 7
DHCPDISCOVER on wlan0 to 255.255.255.255 port 67 interval 13
DHCPDISCOVER on wlan0 to 255.255.255.255 port 67 interval 16
DHCPDISCOVER on wlan0 to 255.255.255.255 port 67 interval 2
No DHCPOFFERS received.
No working leases in persistent database - sleeping.

I can see my device with lsusb:

 lsusb
Bus 001 Device 002: ID 0424:9514 Standard Microsystems Corp.
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 001 Device 003: ID 0424:ec00 Standard Microsystems Corp.
Bus 001 Device 004: ID 0079:0011 DragonRise Inc. Gamepad
Bus 001 Device 005: ID 046d:c52b Logitech, Inc. Unifying Receiver
Bus 001 Device 006: ID 148f:5370 Ralink Technology, Corp. RT5370 Wireless Adapter

my /etc/networking/interfaces:

auto wlan0
allow-hotplug wlan0
iface wlan0 inet dhcp
wpa-ssid 'HOME-9196'
wpa-psk 'xXxXxXxXxXxXx' #Not listing my wpa2 lol

sudo nano /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf:

ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
update_config=1
network={
    ssid="HOME-9196"
    psk="xXxXxXxXxXxXx"
}

ifconfig:

eth0      Link encap:Ethernet  HWaddr b8:27:eb:60:8a:a0
          inet addr:10.0.0.2  Bcast:10.0.0.255  Mask:255.255.255.0
          UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST  MTU:1500  Metric:1
          RX packets:3602 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
          TX packets:2596 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
          collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000
          RX bytes:237535 (231.9 KiB)  TX bytes:393604 (384.3 KiB)

lo        Link encap:Local Loopback
          inet addr:127.0.0.1  Mask:255.0.0.0
          UP LOOPBACK RUNNING  MTU:65536  Metric:1
          RX packets:6 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
          TX packets:6 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
          collisions:0 txqueuelen:0
          RX bytes:300 (300.0 B)  TX bytes:300 (300.0 B)

wlan0     Link encap:Ethernet  HWaddr 00:0f:60:03:ff:5d
          UP BROADCAST MULTICAST  MTU:1500  Metric:1
          RX packets:0 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0
          TX packets:0 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0
          collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000
          RX bytes:0 (0.0 B)  TX bytes:0 (0.0 B)

Any help would be appreciated =)
Any advice?

There are tons of stores online. If you’re in the US go to FocusAttack. If you’re in the UK Ultracabs is pretty good. I’ve got some stuff shipped to me from Arcade World UK that should arrive in a week or so. It seems like the Europeans have way more options than we do in the states!

First, read and plan a lot out before you buy anything.

So here’s what I’m doing (and your mileage may vary). The joystick and top buttons are suzo-happ competition. The front buttons (in the pic) were originally suzo-happ but I had to order different ones because of a sizing issue (that’s what’s shipping from Arcade World UK). You’ll need a control board to interface the controls to the RPi, most people love the i-pac 2. For speakers I bought the cheapest car stereo speakers and cheapest little amp I could find on amazon but a lot of people repurpose old computer speakers. Lighting is really any strip-based lighting. Mount a power-strip inside your box, plug everything into that and wire it to a single power button you mount on the back. Marquee can be ordered online. Paint. T-moulding. Plexi. Later I’m going to add in a few more buttons to do things like save state/load state within the emulators.

I’m still working out the circuit to shutdown the pi gracefully (as I’ve heard questionable reviews about the mausberry ones). The plan is to have a capacitor which stores enough juice to run it for a few minutes, then when power is cut it sends a command to the pi to shut it down. I’m fairly certain I can figure it out and there are more than a few guides online.

Just do your research, build it, and then show it off in the other forum for people’s projects. You can also get a lot of good support there.

Sorry, I’ve been traveling and not checking the forums. My scraper, by default, places the gamelist.xml and images folder in the directory that you ran the scraper which is the folder with the roms.

Where/How did you run the scraper and do you have the roms loading from the usb? or is the there some syncing from usb to sd? I’m trying to understand what is listed in the gamelist.xml and if that might differ from where the actual images are. You can check the xml to see what is listed there.

Can I use a regular controller (simple Retro Link SNES USB controller) instead of xbox 360 controller? Please could you provide some instructions for other controllers :)

I have the cheap usb snes and nes controlles. Fixed the dpad problem from the Snes controllers by putting hot glue inside. The circuit board had only one screw. Bought two 2,4G playstation clone controllers from ebay but I don’t know how to get them to work. Any ideas? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-2-4G-USB-Wireless-Dual-Vibration-Gamepad-Controller-Joystick-For-PC-Laptop-/310811174850?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item485dca27c2