Forum Replies Created
ekdorParticipant02/26/2016 at 00:42Post count: 71ekdorParticipant02/26/2016 at 00:41Post count: 71ekdorParticipant02/20/2016 at 07:53Post count: 71
Ok It’s been a really long time since I’ve had time for my own projects. I should be getting this one finished soon after I can get the dust off it.
Interesting note. I unpacked my raspberry Pi and it refuses to fully start. No idea why since thing has happened to it since I last started it successfully. Tried re-imaging my SD’s, they all fail. Older version works better but still fails during Emulation Station load. Put a fresh copy of Rasbian on one of the SD’s and that works… I would think that either my computer is re-imaging the SD wrong or the backups have gotten corrupted, except that I hadn’t re-imaged when the first failed loads happened. No idea what’s up. Just about to start from scratch with a recent version of RetroPie… Not looking forward to all the fixes I had to do to the last one…ekdorParticipant02/20/2016 at 07:48Post count: 71ekdorParticipant07/22/2015 at 17:18Post count: 71ekdorParticipant07/22/2015 at 16:53Post count: 71
I have to say, EmulationStation… providing a html,css environment would be awesome!
I need to add that I haven’t tested this above v3 beta 2 yet… busy. Will do soon. Had a quick use of the updates and all appeared to be ok as far as I saw. Let me know if there are any issues.ekdorParticipant07/22/2015 at 16:50Post count: 71
Ahh yes. I’ve been so busy I forgot. I haven’t worked don this simple theme for some time. I’ll get it up now. I just need to check in on the export thing to make it easier for you and I’ll pout it up. Now is a good time so you got lucky. nThanks for the reminder. I’ll attach a zip for my boot image as well of those that care to use my theme.ekdorParticipant07/03/2015 at 06:55Post count: 71ekdorParticipant07/03/2015 at 05:44Post count: 71ekdorParticipant06/19/2015 at 09:27Post count: 71ekdorParticipant06/13/2015 at 12:23Post count: 71
This is one I was planning on doing but with some script changes.ekdorParticipant06/12/2015 at 11:28Post count: 71ekdorParticipant06/12/2015 at 11:00Post count: 71ekdorParticipant06/11/2015 at 15:39Post count: 71
Photo 1. Showing scale for those not familiar.
Photo 2. Showing PS1/2 controller connector to USB. Will be using the pcbs wired to the existing connectors in the console and a shorter length of USB cable to the Pi.
Photo 3. Showing general overlay of PS2 Slime PCB. I intent to utilise some of the existing connectors and strip the board free of SMD’s. First desoldering the connectors, stripping, then removing sections to allow for cables to be soldered to the connectors to be desoldered to the PSB. I do not wish to utilise the copper traces. The PCB will also get a colour coat. The existing PS2 PCB will be used as a mounding foundation for the power supply and Raspberry Pi 2 PCB’s. This has the advantage of already fitting the case moulding and already locate the few desired connectors with the case moulding.
Photo 4. Showing front side of PCB with connectors. Will refuse both controller connectors which will be wired into the PCB shown in photo 2 This will utilise one of the Pi USB ports. The two memory connectors above them will not be used but one will serve as a mounting foundation for a standard sized SD Card reader which will connect to the SD Micro via adaptor flex. I choose to use a standard size for flexibility of availability and affordability of SD cards. The two USB connectors will also be connected to two of the Pi USB ports via cable and USB connector. Obviously for use for momentary use such as USB sticks, a Full control panel BT module or what ever. Good time to mention that the last remaining USB port on the Pi will be used by a Wi-Fi module.
Photo 5. Showing back side of the PS2 PCB with connectors. I will Reuse the Ethernet connector which will be connected via a short cable to Pi. The Sony proprietary AV connector will be replaced with he HDMI connector connected via short cable to Pi. I may resume the Optical fitting to position for the 3.5mm audio jack and connected via cable to the Pi. The Sony proprietary power connector (I assume this since it doesn’t fit a standard 5 mm power connector and is only fractionally out), will be removed. A new mains connector such as used for shavers will be put in with a dead power switch on the other end of this side of the PSB. That will connect via the dead latching switch to a power supply suitable for the Pi and its peripherals. Which in tern will connect via cable to the Pi as per usual.
Photo 6. Showing Some parts from the PS2 Slim that I intend to reuse. Not shown here is a heatsink that reduced in size will be suitable for over clocking. That scenario will utilise the small fan which will be powered by the power supply. Have to make sure the supply can handle that along with the others. To the right of the fan is the original soft switch, light and infrared for the PS2. I’ll probably utilise this for the LED and switch for a soft power down for the Pi via GPIO and script. Other parts are memory slot hatches, buttons, feet and screw covers. Metal plate for PS2 Slim stand. I do not have any of these but I will put that back in.
I welcome any questions or thoughts on this.ekdorParticipant06/11/2015 at 14:39Post count: 71
Just wish to follow this up with update. I’ve been waiting for some cabinet parts to arrive before starting the cutting. I want to know how the T-Moulding behaves and what my limitations incase I have to make changes. That’s the last material to arrive, soon! Yay!
Additionally. I realised that in my quest for perfection I forgot that exposed screws in the back will be acceptable. This allowed me to remove a small quantity of MDF frame from the interior. The sides and front will remain screw free.
Hope to have it complete by my 40th birthday this July. Should post some picture by then. Maybe some of the party too just for kicks.ekdorParticipant06/11/2015 at 14:30Post count: 71
As for the possible followup project. I will only do this if there is a change of a moderate opportunity to sell them since there would be direct manufacture costs involved. The case will be entirely custom built. It’s main difference apart from appearance will be hard wiring and a built in display. I’ll still provide the HDMI and Audio outputs as options.
I may stay with the PS1/2 controller ports as the primary option with the USB alternative. This has obvious advantages of a pre built controller and the option for an arcade control panel to be plugged in. I’ll only configure for the PS1/2 controller since I won’t know the variations that might come its way.
It’s still food for thought but I offer it up for possible interest down the track.ekdorParticipant06/11/2015 at 14:11Post count: 71ekdorParticipant05/22/2015 at 12:48Post count: 71ekdorParticipant05/22/2015 at 11:41Post count: 71ekdorParticipant05/14/2015 at 16:25Post count: 71ekdorParticipant05/14/2015 at 16:13Post count: 71ekdorParticipant05/14/2015 at 09:26Post count: 71
Ok, I decided to offer some photo’s as poor as they are. I would really like to do some in system screenshots still. Not just to share but to assess the work. My display is old and the picture is warn.
– Amendment –
In the center photo you can see a no image placeholder I did with the ES logo in it. Also the images are all custom to fit the size of the area since the scraped ones are smaller it tends to look a bit rubbish.ekdorParticipant05/14/2015 at 08:03Post count: 71
Cool, Will check it out.!ekdorParticipant05/14/2015 at 06:58Post count: 71
Are you referring to your previous post compared to the OP? If not, share.
I can’t get any of the custom shaders to work in either of my name emulators. I’ve set the x2 horizontal scalene internally. It’s ok but not as nice as what I setup for retroarch.ekdorParticipant05/07/2015 at 10:12Post count: 71
Thanks, worked hard at it. I looked into using an automatic nesting app. But Maya’s DXF output refused to be recognised so I ended up doing it by hand.
I have laid it out so that I can make some long cuts to reduce the large sheets down to small manageable sizes. I’ll be using both circular-saw and jig-saw. The vertically angled cuts will be with the circular-saw because it has an angular cutting jig. Where possible i’ll be using some aluminium fences to keep the cuts straight. I’d love to use a table-saw but I don’t have access to one. Thinking I might see if someone in my part of town has one to lend. I live in rural Australia so it’s not always so easy.
Reducing the panel size, besides being easier and safer to manoeuvre, will also mean I can put them one at a time on my desk next to my computer desk and draft the parts up using my 3D file for dimensions.
Incidentally the grey parts are vertical cut recliner cuts. The yellow parts have vertical cuts but require a bit more shaping care. Orange parts are thinner than the other parts. Not sure I have the means to do that reliably. Would like to use a planing machine. The red parts have angled cuts and or shaping and routing. Levels of care and difficulty.
Also the measurements are in a strange format. They are in cm but the decimal place is in the wrong place. e.g the left measurement shown as 8.169 is actually 81.69 cm.
– amendment – It looks like it would be solid MDF. But the models is entirely hollow. Weird. Just have to wait till we have a nice day after this weekends family birthday gathering to get the MDF and cut it into the smaller panels. Hope I got it right.ekdorParticipant05/06/2015 at 20:49Post count: 71ekdorParticipant05/06/2015 at 20:45Post count: 71
Update. Just finished my most recent part layout session. I was hoping this was the last one. But I am concerned about the weight. I guess it’ll have more resistance to being pushed against. Also it will come apart into two parts to make moving and transport easier. Guess it will be ok. Possibly I could reduce some of the structural stuff and use a stronger material for that. Make the shelves and hatches a thinner material since they are not all offering direct structural support or stiffening. The shelves do a little.
– amendment. I calculated the area and using the material weight worked out the used area, including the offcuts, to weight around 50kg (110 pounds I think I converted that correctly). I think it’ll be ok given I can split it and it would be strong enough to move with sack truck anyway.
The smaller panel on the right is for the acrylic.ekdorParticipant05/02/2015 at 12:28Post count: 71ekdorParticipant05/02/2015 at 11:29Post count: 71
Not sure if it’s the same message. But I had an issue with the zip file. So I expanded it and copied the directory to the /home/pi/ directory and used these commands.
by default the terminal is in /home/pi which is represented by the tilde symbol ~ so you only have to cd into the directory you copied into the pi directory. Check the directory name matches the command. Rename it to make easier if you need to.
Hope that helps.
– Amendment – Also note that there are two version of the kernel posted in this thread. The second more up-to-date one is on page two of this thread and matches the name in the command above.ekdorParticipant04/30/2015 at 14:37Post count: 71ekdorParticipant04/29/2015 at 08:26Post count: 71
Great! Thanks for that advice. I had noticed the paper grain thing with a button. I have led lit buttons. And I bought all white service buttons with the intension of figuring a way to do custom icons. So first thing was just to get a feel I cut paper circles and inserted them between the clear top and the white frost disc. I ended up saturating the paper with black marker and it actually looks ok. Up close you can tell. Anyway down the track I’ll do something better; like better print or custom printed decals.
I’ve attached two photos. Was hard to get the camera to white balance with the brightness of the buttons.
I have an issue that some of my buttons are different shades to one another. 2 red lit buttons are a bit more magenta than the blood red of the others. Only noticeable when lit. But since there are two I might put them in as the thumb or primary fire buttons. Some of the whites are off too which is of more concern. One player button is yellowish and the other crisp white. And the same for the other two blank white service buttons. Might be able to do something with them. Not looking into that job till construction since it works and easier to deal with.ekdorParticipant04/29/2015 at 01:03Post count: 71ekdorParticipant04/28/2015 at 23:03Post count: 71
I increased the overclock and the sound glutting with scanline cleared up. but it’s really heating up now. Wanted to run it a bit lower than this. Was hoping to get away without a fan in my cabinet, just the heatsinks.
I just turned the overclock backdown and the glitch is still gone… Just want to run some better shaders than scanline.ekdorParticipant04/28/2015 at 22:45Post count: 71