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  • chillimonster
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    Post count: 31

    Yeah, looks like i’m going to have to stick to a Pi2 for the time being.

    Pity as the extra speed of the Pi3 would be nice.

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    EDIT – Just checked and its actually 3.2.1 i currently have, but the same question still applies.

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Thanks for the reply :-)

    So the issue is the 14,000 roms (29,000 if you include C64, Spectrum and the other computers)

    I’ll probably stick to 3.2.1 for now then .

    :-)

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Yeah, already seen that thanks.

    More specifically, what i want to do is remove options from the configuration menu such as UI settings, Sound settings, configure input etc, but leave the shutdown option.

    Is it possible?

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    DOH!

    Missed that one.

    Will give it go now.

    Thanks

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Just done the patch on a machine a friend has built,

    Without the patch it sees the Xin-Mo Dual as two inputs, but with the autofire bug. After the patch the autofire is sorted, but only one set of controls works.

    Any ideas?

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Thanks Ricardo

    There are more examples over on my FB page.

    http://Www.facebook.com/ChillisArcade

    As for the perfect woodwork I use a lot of templates to make sure I can reproduce the same things over and over. If building more than one then the time taken to produce these is well worth it.

    And also spending the money on the right tools. I’m not saying waste money but not trying to bodge (been there. Done that. For example the t moulding bit was over £20 but worth every penny!)

    I don’t mind helping anyone out if they need a ‘borrow’ of a router and t mould bit and they can get to me to use it.

    Or even advice on particular aspects of the building process. I’m no expert but feel I’ve made enough mistakes to be able to help others!

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Ebay.

    Its a 3d Carbon wrap.

    Self adhesive and easy to apply (as with all vinyls there is a technique)

    https://youtu.be/-34MxwenFh0

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    On mine, bot the sound and the LED strip were wired to female DC plugs

    You can use these for ease…

    http://www.gearbest.com/led-strips/pp_19730.html?currency=GBP&gclid=Cj0KEQjwmLipBRC59O_EqJ_E0asBEiQATYdNh8nJK4X3kAcZF2gQfk4pGqmQxFDVLJms4gW3oUrm5jkaAiLf8P8HAQ

    and these connect to the male plug of the power supply.

    Allows for easy disconnection of the lights if needed.

    For access the the control panel, there are two wooden battens, on on eather side that are screwed onto the sides of the cab.

    Its rock solid, but if i need to remove it its just a case of undoing two internal screws (I have this thing about external fixings)

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Never had an issue.

    The LEDs for the marquee draw so little current and the audio amp is also low powered even though it puts out more than enough at 14w. (It’s a decased dell as500 sound bar. Superb quality for the size)

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Hey, we’re all in this together, so it could have been either of us – i presumed it was me as he mentioned a pattern.

    :-)

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    [quote=94911]Great work there, what is the black pattern you have put on, is it glued on?

    Where do you power your led marquee from?

    I need an inventory list of you so I know what to buy :)

    Professional job mate.
    [/quote]

    If talking about mine, then Thanks :-)

    The ‘pattern’ is a 3D Carbon Vinyl Wrap.

    The LED for the Marquee are from a 12V (2A) PSU that also powers the amplifier for the speakers.

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    This is the recessed MDF i mentioned.

    Its an 18mm panel, but the monitor is recessed to within 5mm of the front of the panel.

    Lots of dust and measuring involved. Some people prefer this over the standard Plexi.

    Personally i like the floating look the Plexi gives

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    I use ‘Frog Tape (For a nice clean edge) to mask off the visible area and spray the rest of the Plexi (on the ones i use Plexi on – on some i do a resessed / routed MDF support)

    For power i use a 4 way plug block mounted inside with the cable routed to a single switched & Fused IEC socket (Excuse the pics as they are from two different cabs)

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    As for the volume, you can always quit emulation station and drop to the command prompt.

    Type:

    alsamixer

    Increase the volume from here. I have mine set at 85 (Default is 50)

    Hope this helps

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Its in the fat32 boot partition.

    I usually put mine in my PC and do it that way.

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Excellent – Thanks a million.

    Do you know if it will work with AdvMame?

    Chris

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Yeah. Got your message and will reply tomorrow with details.

    No problem with the video. Hope it helps.

    For the audio you can edit the config file and add the line

    disable_audio_dither=1

    This sorts most of the background noise.

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    [quote=94456]
    Sorry for the dumb question, but what do you mean by trim the barbs off
    [/quote]

    After this reply I decided to do a little YouTube video to explain as I get asked about it quite often

    http://youtu.be/9rSL5l2iycQ

    Hope this helps to clarify. The chrome is no different than the standard stuff.

    I usually use a rubber mallet but didn’t have one to hand and as it was standard red moulding a stand hammer was ok. On the chrome is definitely use a rubber mallet.

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Thanks.

    The trick with the t-moulding is to make sure it’s warm. It’s like a coiled spring if cold.

    When getting it around the corners I trim the barbs off for the inch or so where it goes around the corner. The slit is tight enough so it will not move. Tried all sorts of different ways and that is the best.

    For lighting the marquee I use led strips (search eBay for 3528 led strip). It’s quite cheap and easily wired into a 12v psu.

    Controller / encoder wise I use either the xin-mo or the zero delay encoders. If using the xin-mo I use two separate controllers , one for each player. Saves hassle in the retroarch emulators as the two player unit does not play nice with two player console games. Both work well with the pi2. The ZD are available from eBay at around £8 each from China including post and only take 4 days to arrive.

    The beauty of those two is that they both perform pretty much the same and can share the same config files

    I use any 19″ lcd. Decase it and rebate it into the monitor panel.

    I’ve got hundreds of pictures documenting the build process so any questions fire away and I’ll do my best to help.

    If you need details of the local company that does my printing let me know and I’ll put you in touch. He’s quick and the price is very reasonable. I pay £32 for two side arts and a marquee.

    [quote=94440]That TRON one is amazing!!! illuminated buttons are a must.

    Any tricks to get that chome T Moulding working roudn the curved areas, heard this is hard to do?

    Do you use the ipac-2 or arcade usb controller for your buttons? I see you can buy various kits, not sure what woudl work with the pi 2.

    I guess any old 19inch monitor should do the trick too?

    I can’t find a marqueee light, but I can worry about this much later.

    Very pro jobs, you she set up a shop. Seen many on ebay, some are very expensive.
    [/quote]

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    [quote=94434]phrazelle and chillimonster, those are some awesome builds. Really great job.[/quote]

    Thanks.

    :-)

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Speaker Panel

    Quite a neat solution for the speakers using the soundbar and cannibalizing it.

    And by using Insert Nuts (£4 for a bag of 50 from Screwfix) there are no external screws anywhere on the cab.

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    I tend to use ArcadeWorldUK for my parts – next day delivery and usually has everything in stock (Had issues with Ultracabs and stock)

    Speakers – i tend to use Dell Soundbars – strip them down and use them that way – the AS500 is the best (and easiest to strip)

    Also built this one based on Tron (Illuminated Blue Buttons)

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Thanks :-)

    Nope, both hand built by me.

    Got the wood cut to the right witdh at B&Q then set to it with the jigsaw and router.

    Currently building two more for people that have seen these and want one – another space invader one (with illuminated buttons and joysticks) and a simpsons themed one

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    Heres a couple of mine……………

    chillimonster
    Participant
    Post count: 31

    I used to be able to add the path of the executable in Profile, but dont see the options i need to see (Very Very new to this and i think it was just luck i get it to work before).

    What i am after doing is getting it to boot straight to AdvanceMame (Stops kids messing to much)

Viewing 26 posts - 1 through 26 (of 26 total)