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  • pumpytums
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    Post count: 10

    Hi Everyone,
    I’m just starting my handheld based on a Gameboy DMG. So far I have the Raspberry Pi 2 configured to use my ADAFRUIT 2.8r screen using Retropie 3.2.1 (Thanks srfrboybob for help and advice). Rather than use a controller through the GPIO I’m going to try and use the guts out of one of those cheap SNES controllers on ebay (£3.50) and connect it through the USB this will give me greater flexibility I’m hoping. Having open the controller up its very easy to modify as its only a single layer board.

    The problem I’m having at the moment relates to the power. I’m a little twitchy about connecting an LIPO and controller board ADAFRUIT 1000c. I would rather connect a commercial available USB portable charger block. I have a Urban Revolt Powerbank 4400mAh. Which will provide 5V @ 1A which sounds perfect. It’s a little big but I reckon it may fit inside (9.1 x 4.4 x 2.2 cm) especially if I disassemble it. The alternative is to use 4 x AA batteries with a PowerBoost 1000. I prefer the latter to be honest keeps it more authentic.

    I will update when I get a Gameboy DMG shell I did buy one off ebay but I reckon it might be fixable so I don’t really want to gut it unless its no good.

    Thanks

    pumpytums
    Participant
    Post count: 10

    Right after a rather slow start I’m finally getting somewhere. I purchase 2 Gameboy DMG-01 to gut and managed to fix both of them so that has generated my funds for the project. I eventually ordered 2 new shells from China so no Game boy will be harmed in the process.

    My first problem was with the WIFI I bought a cheap £2.50 delivered adapter Retropie 3.2.1 didnt have the driver.

    Mini 150Mbps USB WiFi Wireless LAN 802.11 b/g/n Adapter Nano

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291688634122?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    So I used

    lsusb

    this listed the offending device after a google search

    Bus 001 Device 004: ID 148f:7601 Ralink Technology, Corp.

    as needing a MT7601 driver

    I used the command

    sudo wget https://github.com/porjo/mt7601/raw/master/src/mcu/bin/MT7601.bin -O /lib/firmware/mt7601u.bin

    None of this is my work I found a guide on the following site

    https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=89565&p=833452#p826699

    I then modified

    sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces

    WPA/WPA2

    auto lo

    iface lo inet loopback
    iface eth0 inet dhcp

    allow-hotplug wlan0
    auto wlan0
    iface wlan0 inet dhcp
    wpa-ssid “NETWORK_NAME”
    wpa-psk “NETWORK_PASSWORD”

    This works great apart from if I change locations and the adapter cannot find my network it keeps looking. I’m sure there is a easy option to sort this.

    Next I bought a usb hub/ethernet adapter so I can de-solder all the usb and rj45 connectors to make it smaller in height.

    USB 3.0 to LAN/RJ45 Gigabit Ethernet Network Cable Adapter and 3 USB3.0 Port Hub

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361407930780?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    This would be great for a Zero

    After a bit of a faff I managed to get the external Ethernet working I changed the contents of

    sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces

    auto lo

    iface lo inet loopback
    iface eth1 inet dhcp

    allow-hotplug wlan0

    auto wlan0

    iface wlan0 inet dhcp
    wpa-ssid “xxxxx”
    wpa-psk “yyyyyy”

    The important bit was changing iface eth1 inet dhcp which prevously said iface eth0 inet dhcp

    I have decided to use tactile switches under the Game Boy keys I may use a pcb for the directional control I bought some good quality ALPS ones which have a life of 1,000,000 cycles.

    SKHHAKA010 – Switch Tactile Pcb 0.98N – ALPS

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201278379080?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    Im going to mount them on vero strip board so I can move them round easily. I will then wire them into the chip off the USB pad I’m going to take apart. If the joypad area matches up I may superglue that to the board and use that instead.

    I’m now on the hunt for a small enough battery pack I think my power bank may be too thick.

    Has anyone used those extended battery’s for the S3 or Note 4?

    Thanks

    pumpytums
    Participant
    Post count: 10

    Well I have decided on a single 18650 lipo cell (Protected). I really don’t think I can fit 2 in. I have sourced a dc-dc Step up board and I have also found a little 3w amp board

    3V to 5V 1A DC-DC Converter Step Up Boost Module NEW

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221944769808?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    Mini 5V Digital Power Amplifier Board PAM8403 Class D 2x3W NEW

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221948451399?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    I found some 8 ohm speakers cheap from HK that will fit nicely in the Game boy.

    1W 8 Ohm 28mm Round Metal Shell Internal Magnetic Speaker Replacement 4Pcs

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291569968869?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    I have found a company in the UK that sells the lipo packs

    I’m planning on charging the cells externally If I can get them out it may be a little tight as they are 68mm long. Failing that I can still use 4 AA rechargeable cells to test it prior to getting the lipos.

    XTAR MC1 USB Li-Ion BATTERY CHARGER 18650 18500 18350 14500

    2x Torchy (Panasonic Inside) 3400mAh Protected 18650 3.7v Li-ion batteries

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Torchy-Panasonic-Inside-3400mAh-Protected-18650-3-7v-Li-ion-batteries-/291701476979

    I found an interesting build that used wire for the button input pcb contacts I may try that and buy a reel of 24k gold plated wire.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/Gameboy-LCDRaspi-Upgrade/?ALLSTEPS

    pumpytums
    Participant
    Post count: 10

    Well I leaned a few things recently. Firstly how not to de-solder female headers I should have just used end cutters to chop it to bits then removed the pins not how I did it. I have lifted a few tracks on the TFT board. The good news is I have a spare 2.8″ tft screen the board may be salvageable. For information for anyone interesed on assembled Adafruit TFT (2.8″) they dont use a little bit of double sided tape they use a huge piece not much smaller than the actual TFT. Its very difficult to get the TFT of the board to solder it. I warmed mine on a radiator TFT up for 10mins on a piece of cardboard this softens the glue enough to release it.

    I also discovered what that little rainbow icon means in the top right under-voltage warning so my power bank cannot supply enough current luckily I bought a 2-24v-upto 28V 2A as well they dont cost much its bigger but you can set the output voltage up to 28V its a nice little board, a bit bigger than the other one but who knows.

    MT3608 DC-DC Voltage Step Up Adjustable Boost Converter Module 2A

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181898976057?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    As mentioned in others builds the TFT board needs to be shaved slightly to fit (its the same as the 3.2″ one.

    My next job is going to be building my joypad board hopefully I cant break anything there.

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