thedarknightParticipant03/22/2016 at 01:59Post count: 2
I ‘ve been looking around the forum and really impressed with some of the builds that people are creating and been wanting to do something similar for the past 2 or so years but I’ve never had the courage to. Not looking at a full arcade cabinet but a portable 1 player stick that can hold the raspberry pi. Most of the plan builds I see don’t go into details on where to order parts from or are not novice friendly.
I was hoping somebody could point me in the direction of something simple that doesn’t require any soldering and that I can put together myself ordering parts from ebay or other sites that will ship to Australia. Ideally, I would like LED buttons if that won’t over complicate things and if there is a way to plug everything in the GPIOs instead of using a USB encoder.
I wouldn’t be able to create a case from scratch and some of the prices for pre-built kids are out of my price range and therefore planning to get somebody I know to build me something out of wood if I can get all the internals working first.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.lilbudParticipant03/22/2016 at 02:34Post count: 118zerojayParticipant03/22/2016 at 04:29Post count: 173
Buy a used Xbox 360 arcade stick, preferably a Madcatz TE stick. They should be cheap as most tournaments have moved away from 360 and easy to find. They’ll come with some of the best parts as well.thedarknightParticipant03/23/2016 at 13:57Post count: 2
Thanks for the links and recommendations guys. I’ve previously considered modifying an existing fight stick but they rarely go sale here and the Madcatz TE fight sticks are difficult to come by here in Australia and they’re not cheap either – even pre-owned.
For now, the case is really my second priority as am more concerned about the electronic side of this project and hoping there was a step by step guide that somebody had created that could be easy to follow for beginners. I’m referring more about wiring. I really like the simplicity of this project and how it avoids using USB encoders or soldering. It’s just a shame that it doesn’t go into extensive details on parts and the process involved:
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